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Pattunulkarar – The Silk Weaver

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dindigul-hondloom-story

Have you ever wondered how a Rubik square works? Scattered colors find their counter parts to bring out a new meaning… Similarly the weavers of Saurashtrapuram lane of Dindigul district of Tamil Nadu, located in the foothills of Sirumalai hills in the vicinity of hundreds of temples…greet you with houses painted in bright colors & as you enter their tiny but warm households… an artistic display of their tools, bundles of colored yarn unspooling from glass jars and a nonstop chattering of wooden shuttles awaits you with pictures of Gods & aromatic smell of flowers and incense filling up the walls and marinating the ingredients held within.These fabrics… fill up with the understanding of nature, their surroundings & learnings of their past & present… become a canvas for five senses to indulge in.

south-india-handloom-weaving

Every now & then their humble abodes have learners & onlookers to witness the magic of their hands… few inquisitiveeyes look closely at the fine woven sari & in return its peaks to them of generations it has witnessed through the lens of traditions… passed down from one hand to another… each adding a new character to it. Amazed by the sudden revelation! One of the onlookers mutters to himself “these colors,motifs seem to have so much morethan what meet the eyes… an amalgamation of many cultures”. Such keen remarks evoke from an otherwise quiet weaver tales“these fine weaves have a story of their own to tell.”

weavers-migration

“It all begun years & years ago… from the land of Surashtrain Gujarat… where Surashtrian weavers were known for their fine weaving. With a swish of their hand they would turn lifeless threads into finest of fabrics ever seen. Everything was hail & holy… until one day when their neighborhoods were attacked by Mohamed of Ghazini, destroying the harmony around… forcing the weavers with many others to move out. They moved along… in search of peaceful places… learning through new experiences from places they stayed at & the people they met… building a story within these threads. Wandering through the vast expanses of this country, from North, Centre and South of India, showcasing their skills,they gathered appreciation from one and all.

south-weavers-community

Eventually, they reached Madurai & mesmerized by the spiritual aura, finally settled in & later dispersed to various other places in Tamil Nadu from there, one of them being the Dindigul region. Their skill earned them the title of “Pattunulkarar”, meaning “the silk weaver”, for the fineness of their weaves. Though their mother tongue remains Saurastrian, they have picked up Tamil very well and being the only language of communication in the region, it has also entered their households as the prime communication language. Their food habits at home are also a mix of both, Gujarati and Tamil cultures.

dindigul-saree

Dindigul is best known for its Kanchi cotton saris today, historically made in kanchpuram, before they switched entirely to silk and ‘cotton Kanchi’ fell into Dindigul’s share. Unlike most clusters in south that avoid weaving black, Dindigul offers a variety in this color. Dindigul has five clusters under it from Dindigul Black One, Dindigul Black Two, Dindigul Black Three, Palanito Toppampatti. Dindigul Black One has 1760 weavers whereas Black two has 2500 weavers weaving similar kind of saris on double jacquard looms since the beginning of the cluster. Dindigul Black Three, also known as Aathur in Chinalapatti area works on tie-dye Single-Ikat saris, followed by Palani&Toppampatti.

dindigul-hondloom-setup

Weaving here is done on Double jacquard looms, one jacquard is for the Border & the second one is for Pallu. Jacquard border and Pallu are of 120 hooks each. Each loom set-up has about 3-4 shuttles and 4 paddles. A weaver takes around 3 days to finish a sari, where one day is given to making of Pallu & intricacies of silk may take a weaver 2.5 -3 days to complete a Pallu design. These saris are locally wet dyed from approved dyers. For azo-free vegetable dying they are also sent to Pollachi. Pre-loom processes of warping and sizing are done in Chinnalapatti or Palangudi and finally the warp is set on the loom by the weaver himself. Weft yarn is inserted in the Pirn using Chakra. Through a single wrap, ten saris are made in one month’s time. 7-8 wraps are made per design with different color combinations.

dindigul-saree-cotton

“Bemberg cotton”, a miss pronunciation of “Bumper cotton”, which means “new cotton” is used as weft & Art silk (artificial silk) as wrap in weaving. Cotton is sourced from National Handloom Development Corporation or farms of Maharashtra. A new range of saris weaving pure silk from Banglore & Art silk from Surat together is being introduced as a premium variant. Warp and weft of 80s cotton are used in the saris. The body has 80s combed cotton with 3200 csp (count strength product). 20/100 cgm (cotton gas mercerized), a fine and lustrous variant of cotton is used in Border &Pallu. For silk saris, 75 Diner wrap & 80s combed yarn for weft is employed.

cotton-saree-pallu

These cotton saris come in pleasing color combinations to suit the modern taste as well. Interesting blend of traditional motifs like Temple Rekku, Peacock, Mango butta or elephant with modern patterns, sitin balance. Mubbakam, a three part sari is divided equally horizontally along its 6.2 meters of length (5.5m of sari + 70cm for blouse). There are about 25-30 designs in this pattern. Black is a color the weavers of this cluster do not hesitate to work with, as against every other cluster, where it is considered inauspicious. The Pallus are the most elaborated part of a sari design, weavers put their skills together for days to bring out through them; glories of past and trends of today…”

tamilnadu-weavers

These people of tradition… weave traditional fabrics, both on their looms as well as in their social lives… and there is a sense of balance they seem to have acquired in both the skills…. deeply intertwined and freely flowing into each other throughout the day… Old beliefs acquired from places known and unknown, with fresh cumulative wisdom of everyday life, the sari, in itself is an artistic expression of the one it is draped around…


The toys that made them!

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What day or date it is cannot be said with certainty because every day on the streets of this village, in its by-lanes and fields, at the porch of each household, in its ceremonies and in the insignificant but repetitive gestures of its women, carrying in their hands the destiny of their men, the future and the present of the village and of all those people and places anyone from here is ever going to touch, is the same. Little big cases of wood carried everywhere carry in turn the present, the future and the stories of what has now become past in them… Past, that can be very much seen in everything they do and believe in today.

etikopakka-market

Mother, a treasure house of mysteries had always intrigued Ganesh with the varied many roles and ensemble of things she played with throughout the day. His bonding with her might have been natal and natural but his growing interest in her was purely owing to the dreamboat she was. Every morning ever since he knew he had watched her get ready in front of her mirror… among her Tilak, fresh fragrant flowers and jewels were placed six wondrous boxes. These cylindrical wooden boxes were lacquered and colored in turmeric yellow, amber red, green, indigo blue, black and orange, with beautiful knobbed lids sitting on top

etikopakka-colourfull-jar

Each of them was opened in turns and a little ritual was performed with the contained ingredients…. In between she would go and come back… fresh, water trickling down the long black strands of her hair like cascades… The room would suddenly be full of sharp spicy fragrance replacing the mild aroma of the fresh flowers sitting on her hair now… the play would get further mystified as clouds of smoke rising from the burning pot would be sent out by her in gentle waving gesture, making the goddess visible only through a misty screen. A shout would be heard and mother would come out of the room, leaving the goddess inside for the rest of the day… an indication for Ganesh to get ready and be present at kitchen for breakfast. Mother then would spend a few moments offering prayers to goddess Tulasi in the courtyard, where she has to protect and bring good fortune to the family…. a plate with Dhoopam, Kum-kum and a Lota filled with water… and on the way back she would get a few leaves from her branches. This would be the first interaction of her day with her female consorts…. every day. Meanwhile, by this time Ganesh is sitting on the kitchen ledge; fresh and dressed up for school, mother like goddess Annapurna appears with hot steaming Idlis and Sambar in her hands. And before biding goodbyes never did she ever once forget to smear his brown forehead with the mark of Sandal Tilak, right in between the brows and place a peck just above it.

andhra-kids-going-school

Ganesh would most often go through this ceremony with closed eyes…partly to feel the cool of sandal flow down the rest of his body but mostly for that rush that he uses to get … like a thousand butterflies rising to the floral scent of mother’s hair. He believes in her, he believes in her presence around him, in the flowers that he can still smell, sitting in his classroom, the white clouds, the goddess in the dressing room and the mystic messages from skies that she lets out with her hands filling their house with prayers.

etikopakka-butterfly

Lessons taught in class were important to pass exams but life was teaching Ganesh some other lesson, that seemed unavoidable… and before he knew, the butterfly of his imagination would take a flight and sit on some colorful object, something with an aura of sorts, the kind that grips you because it has a story to say…. while his gaze remained fixated on the blur grey of the chalk board, he would be drifting in some clouds, rolling down green hills or hanging from tree branches…. and so, the day would pass… Though, today on his way back from school he stopped by a little workshop at the turn of the lane. Anna sitting there in a heap of wood shavings was turning a block of wood on a lathe machine. He had seen this many times from outside but something pulled him closer today. After all, this was the place those message boxes of mother’s were brought from. Anna, a stout middle age man seemed jolly and did not mind his presence in the workshop. The wood kept rotating at a very high speed, while Anna held his magic torch to it and Lo! The rectangular wood turned into a cylinder right before his eyes… Wood shavings flying off in curled roles like those delicious cream roles in the bakery had by now an effect on him… he was drooling, mouth wide open… Finding some space on the soft mattress of wood shavings, he sat to take a closer look. The cylinder was now taking many shapes.

etikopakka-lac-colors-process-artisan

The magic wand touched the wood at a place and a ring got formed… soon many concentric rings got formed on the surface of it. Now it began to get hollow from within. A touch and a whole lot of wood spooling out in roles, leaving behind empty space. It was like nothing he had seen before. These message boxes were indeed made magically. Fully convinced with his conclusion, he began looking around for more clues and surprises in the sea of wood shavings with Anna and his magical powers on boat. Finding nothing more than a few more magic wands lying around, he began introspecting… they were slightly different from each other but nothing he touched with it transformed like they did in Anna’s hands. Further digging into the swirly wood mounds, few pieces of colorful rocks were discovered…. Just like the colors of the boxes. “What are these and where did you find them?” “They came from nature around us.” “God gave you these?”

lac-colors

“Yes….” Lifting a red stone in his hands he smiled to little Ganesh. He touched it to the rotating wood and Lo and behold! The wood turned red in color. Ganesh could not believe his eyes… rubbing them quickly he handed over a blue to him…. And again, in no time a touch of blue made a blue ring around the brim of the rotating wood. With his eyes barely keeping within their sockets at what they were witnessing, he was fully convinced with Anna’s close association with god…. How else could he just touch things and change their form and color. His surprise was not one that could be hidden… as he got up and brushed his short pants roughly and got leaving…. Anna’s creative hand rose in slow motion and handed him a red flower, with a stem to hold. It was surely one of the pieces from his world, perfectly round and red. Partly in haste, partly grateful and hugely astonished, he shot out like a bullet, straight to his home. Swung his bag to one corner and shouting for his mother ran towards the kitchen…

etikopakka-lac-latoo

“Mother, look what I got for you. Red flower” Taking it in her hands she smiled… “This flower is special, where did you get it from” Narrating his whole story with surprise and heart pumping just as fast, he had only looked aside for a second when his mother leaned forward and with a twist of her fingers let the red flower swirling and dancing on the floor…. Its red turning blur from bright…. Swaying side by side….left to right… while the black beady eyes stood fixed on it…

~~~

etikopakka-master-artisan-C.V-Raju

Tharani or Turned wood lacquer ware craft originated from a village called Lakapalli (or Nakapalli) near Etikoppaka in Vishakhapatnam district of Andhra Pradesh. While Etikoppaka excelled in making playing tops and Baranis (wooden boxes) to contain various items to be offered to Gods since historic times. During 15th century Toys, Boxes, utilitarian products like bowls, spice jars, idols of God & Goddesses were made here for local use as well as export. The craft saw a decline for a long period of time during colonial rule as a part of colonial policy that aimed at breaking the sustainable economic systems of India. In 1988 however, it came back to life with the efforts of many people, noteworthy of them are Mr. C.V Raju, who played a great role together with Uzra Bilgrami, in reviving the craft by introducing new product ranges inspired by traditional products but keeping in mind the modern requirements. Mr. Raju, an agriculturist by education has been working in the craft popularly known as Etikoppaka toys or Etikoppaka Bommalu since last 30 years.

etikopakka-farmer

Out of the total population of eleven thousand people, three hundred to four hundred men and women are involved in the craft today. The other main sources of income to this village are agriculture and milk production apart from the craft. The craft community has around 160 households and they mostly stay in joint families with four to six members in each family. Their mother tongue is Telugu but few in the community understand and speak Hindi and English. Vishwa Bhramins, the carpenters of the village were involved in toy making craft in the region since historic times. Padmashali, who were the weavers & Devangas, who were the spinners later joined the group since all the weaving practices in the village came to an end in early 1990s.

etikopakka-lac-colors

Raw materials sourced for the craft are locally growing Wrightia Tinctoria wood (अंकुडू) & its sub specie Wrightia Tomentosa. It is a soft wood also called as ivory wood or white wood. For inducing color in the toys, natural dyes are extracted from seeds, bark, roots and leaves which are mix with lac with the process of oxidation. After this process, the end product obtained is rich in color. This lac dye is used for coloring the Etikoppaka toys.

etikopakka-lac-colors-process

Sketches with measurements are given to the artisan to make small products precisely. They also work out many products through their own imagination. The artisans are skilled enough to figure out the technical nuances of any product within the limitation. Design inspirations are often taken from South Indian temple pillars, old brass utensils, Barinis . The tools used are mainly Chisels of different types- Goruli, Monauli, Lovuli and Hulli for scalping, hollowing, refining purposes. Every artisan makes his customized tools usually.

etikopakka-raw-wood-material

Once the wood is harvested it is being semi finished and kept for seasoning for six weeks or so depending on the size of the product. Not more than two people are involved in making of a single product. Each and every Artisan household has a work place for preparing these artifacts. Before motorized lathes, artisans practiced on hand lathes. Both turning and chiseling of the wooden block were done by men. In 1975, with the intervention of motorized lathe machines, human labor was reduced to chiseling work, increasing their productivity as well as capacity to innovate. Shavings obtained during turning are being used as fuel for cooking and also made into a mosquito repellant. The wood powder is mixed with cow dung, Neem leaf and Sambarani & burnt to keep mosquitoes away. Smallest possible beads are made out of the last piece of wood.

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Kunbi

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village-goa

Sieving through a dense layer of transport, haphazard and junky on a hard road we are in a small town placed between the clarity of an established city and that of an even clearer village… headed towards the latter. Cool breeze, soft padded mud beneath our wheels, dense foliage, we are already in Paliem, a small settlement of Konkani weaver families placed in time that went by as giant old trees, leading us to Baburao Thilvey’s humble but inviting abode. This old but hardy man is now partially deff, he has served more than his best as a weaver and let the religious tattering of the shuttle take away from him whatever it asked for in order to give him yardages of Kunbi…. and he holds it as Neivediam in his hands. Kunbi is derived from kun and bi meaning “people” and “seeds”, respectively. Fused together, the two terms mean “those who germinate more seeds from one seed”. The fabric meant for farmland laborers mainly is their identity.

Baburao Thilvey

Baburao Thilvey

A weaver for fishermen he was… and was celebrated in the community once upon a time. Goa under the Portuguese rule used to be a hub for handloom weaving and many weavers had flourishing workshops that produced Kunbi sarees and kashtis. When Goa became a part of India power looms came into being and later handlooms were sold for fire wood and weavers had to choose other occupations due to decline in the market demand. While the demonstrations died with the death of looms, the celebrations were kept alive and can be heard even now when this old man talks about his work. The authority to talk on Kunbi weaves with deepest reverence and accuracy can never go to anyone else…. Even if the only language he knows is a variant of Konkani and the audience has no clue about it.

babu-rao-kunbi-famly

Baburao and his first daughter in law host us in their once mud but now cemented porch, under the Kavelu shed. A little window opening in the porch is left open and we are offered drinks from this family run village grocery shop. Just adjacent to this is a semi open court with a shed sheltering machines of the bygone era… their function has ceased but the place is still intact. Leading us to the good old times, when business was flourishing Baburao shows us his looms, spindles, spinning wheels and a carding machine. Mentoring a group of 14-16 weavers at a time, churning one and a half sari per day per weaver, his workshop was also a school in running. Weavers from Mangalore were popularly called for their deft capacity of two sarees a day and carpenters to fashion their looms were also invariably from the city. Harishchandra, a local carpenter was an exception to the happy go lucky Govan population. Each order was made to custom.

kunbi-wevers-tools

Catering to various stages in life and occasions, they made Kunbi saris in their trademark checkered patterns in Yellow (Kesara), Red (Tamodh), Green (Hirva), darker shades of Maroon, Purple and Black signifying Youth, Marriage, Old age and Death. Men wore a red and white loin cloth called Kastti around their waist and climbed tall coconut trees and women these saris typically draped and held with a knot in front of their shoulder, with or without a blouse. They were also made to signify different sects within the community.

kunbi-women

While their color pallet was small and standard, the lengths and their widths were made as per the person. The popular Maharashtrian Nauvaari being a nine yard sari, usually optimum for most of the population, one could also see Dahvaaris and Chavaaris… Variants in smaller widths for shorter people were also made. Women dressed up in new saris… flower Venis decorating their mane and scenting their clean, oiled buns, bindi or a tilak on their foreheads and ears dazzling with gold rings and studs…. Their stature strong and well built.

kunbi-community

School going girls wore skirts and boys a loin cloth of the same woven checkered fabric (kapot). Apart from these, valo (small towel), tuvalo (towel), chador (bed sheet), and the traditional Gaudda sari was also seen taking birth on the looms.

kunbi-saree-design

The yarn for weaving was usually collected either from the shop owner in the city who would receive the woven fabric in return or from yarn merchants popularly known as Mambrey. There were families of dyers like the Shetty home in Belgaum who would dye the yarn if it was in huge quantities. Small quantities were dyed or bleached in the household by the weaver only. The village is placed between the borders of Maharashtra and Goa in a geographic location which is blessed with floral diversity. With about 156 dye yielding plants surrounding them, collecting natural dyes was a matter of looking around and identifying these plants. These dyes are developed today by the Sawantwadi, Maharashtra based BioDye India Pvt. Ltd, a set up run by Dr. Bosco Henriques that deals in natural dyes.

Ranganath Kamath

Ranganath Kamath

However, Kunbis were mostly dyed in naphtha colors. Single yarn per dent of shuttle on a simple pit loom was woven. Fabric from as rough as 20s count to 40s to 60s was woven as per the demand and was sold in Mapsa and Margaon markets. Traditionally, the Kunbi is a cotton chequered sari in red and white with a sturdy weave good enough to be worn for farming. A dobby border, which is essentially a silken flat inset in the original Kunbi can be found. It is worn short above ankles with a knot on the shoulder. “One sari in 1960-70 would cost somewhere between Rs40 – Rs70 and a silk one would not be more than Rs200” recalls Ranganath Kamath, another master of the craft from Candolim. The required loom accessories like heald frames, shuttle, heald wires, binding thread, warping machine, creel and yarn was purchased from Belgaum , Gadag and Hubli.

kunbi-weaving-loom

The operation of sizing the yarn constituted one of the most important stages in the preparation of warps which if not previously sized, would be unable to withstand the tensile strain and excessive chafing action of the shedding harness, reed, and shuttle race-board during the operation of weaving. The natural sizing material which used was odorless, inexpensive and locally available; it was fine wheat flour or Maida. Bobbin winding was carried out by using Charakha called bobbin winder. 312-320 bobbins were required for preparation of each warp beam to weave sarees. Individual yarns from each bobbin passed through reed and were then wound on warp beam. The reed being a guide to check the broken yarns. Approximately 14 meter of yarn would be wound in 8 different sections to make the required width of the sari body.

kunbi-design-and-weaves

Till about thirty years ago there were many families in Bastora village involved in the practice. Kunbi weaving saw a downfall during the time government power loom units were set up in surrounding villages in 1970s. The fabric was cheaper and produced faster than the weavers ever could produce. Despite this low demand some continued weaving for it was difficult to part from what they had been practicing since their childhood and this was the only means of earning livelihood respectably they could see…. Hunting for yarn and weaving to sustain and supply merely to their neighbors. This, from the times his fabric was much in demand and he was a celebrity has hampered his generosity little.

Ganesh Festivel Market, Goa


Ganesh Festivel Market, Goa

He is still hospitable and has something to offer to everyone. Honest to his craft he only takes what he feels is the right price for his fabric, not a penny extra. And as he gets busy talking about their rituals and festivals Ganesh Chaturthi, Diwali, Navratri, their favorite sweets Chakli and karanji… a distant voice breaks the nostalgia. It is the carpet seller selling homemade Godadhis along with plastic woven mats. It is rare to see them with a seller because they are usually made in the village by women for their own household… from the left over of weaving or old rags. And a bunch of school children come flocking by dressed neatly in their uniforms… red and white checkered shirts and skirts… and one leaps for a closer look…. Only to find out that it is a print of kunbi patterns on mill made fabric…. A take on from our heritage… is it?

Waves of a Desert…

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Gathering commences in the middle of deserted pavilions where velvet carpets adorn the Dessert lands & Manganiyars play folk music as a bugle for the occasions to begin. Royals from every corner are called upon to decorate the occasion. It’s a sight to behold, men & women welcoming the Kings by dancing their hearts out. Escorted by troops of horses and elephants decorated with finest imagery, jewels, textiles and armors, they are being showered with colorful flowers pouring over the gathering. Kings grace the occasion in finest Angrakhas & their blazing jewel studded headgear’s. One after another, kings enter the Durbar & the whole place lights up with their shimmering attires. Amidst such pomp and show a man with a King’s composure and firmness walks in… not bedecked in jewels like the rest.

Laheriya-1

He stands out like a white crane in the shimmering background of the afternoon river… and his headgear, a perfect pink shines brighter than all jewel put together. This King of Jaipur was something… of a fresh wave, that irresistibly passed through each and every one present in the gathering…. and the waves did indeed adorn his impeccably bright fedora… it’s tail waving with the wind, light as feather. Jaws dropped, eyes hypnotized, heads turning in the direction of his waving tail as he walked past. Carrying waves of the oceans on his head, making sand dunes dance to his tunes; he walked the sea to the deserted lands of Rajasthan. On the spur of the moment whispers about the never seen before headpiece started echoing from every corner.

king-of-jaipur-wearing-pagdi

“Every king tells a tale from their region!” said one, more out of a collective inquisitiveness to know about the King of Jaipur than to know about anyone else. Soon the Durbar was filled with stories of amazement, with each sharing a bit of his own. An anticipatory audience turned to the king of Jaipur as he began speaking. Seeing the much excited crowd all ears to his narrations the King introduced his province… A city where colors are deep rooted in the culture and so the city itself is known after one of the most vibrant colors ever, as The Pink City. Their love for the color being so profound that they even decided to reside in houses drenched in a hue of Pink… “And Oh! How it merges with the gradient of the sky of the setting sun, the skyline of Jaipur!” & so does his headgear, thought everyone.

“People of such a city must have the most colorful mindsets” said one,“…painting their imagination in colors flowing through their lanes… and veins.”  Every corner of the city speaks a different story… You often see men sporting colorful headgears & this royal tradition have been followed whole heartedly. Making Pagdis has become a prominent craft and is an integral part of the rich heritage & an identity for many communities. The Kevat community wears only red Bandhani turban at all occasions. Jat community in Narwa village wears a bright yellow turban.

rajasthani-people-wearing-pagdi

Pappu Ram Bhil belongs to Bhil community. He wears a Marwadi gol paghdi & sings Pabuji ka Pad.They are found in various sizes and shapes and are influenced by many factors. To protect themselves from heat of the blazing sun and harsh climate, turbans are also used as pillows by men while travelling and can be used as ropes to draw water from a well. Apart from these practical uses that a turbanis availed for, it is also a symbol of honor for the men of Rajasthan.

laheriya-colors

Colors have a deep meaning in our culture & give a beautiful insight about the lifestyle of the people of Rajasthan. Every possible effort is made to counter the bareness of the deserts, by pouring colors all around. Leheriya is one craft which is believed to provide hope to the people of a state as dry as Rajasthan … the hope that a ‘Leher’ or a wave of water brings along… And they have been communicating this hope to each other through this craft- the women through their colorful Leheriya dupattas, saris and the men through their Paghdis and Safas. They celebrate and welcome the monsoon through their dresses; the Leheriya dancing in exaltation. In this season, women majorly wear the Samudra Leheriya, which has the colors of the sea.

1. Jodhpuri safa, 2. Rabari, Bridegroom safa; Barmer, 3. Bhaat safa, Bhaat community,Barmer, 4. Samode pagh, worn during monsoon,5. Gol safa, worn by many communities around Jodhpur, 6. Dharangdhra safa,Pink chiffon Royal turban of Gujarat.

1. Jodhpuri safa, 2. Rabari, Bridegroom safa; Barmer, 3. Bhaat safa, Bhaat community,Barmer, 4. Samode pagh, worn during monsoon,5. Gol safa, worn by many communities around Jodhpur, 6. Dharangdhra safa,Pink chiffon Royal turban of Gujarat.

Leheriya has basically comes from the word ‘leher’, meaning waves. It is a tie-dye technique resulting in diagonal stripes on fabric, which look like waves. It is a water-centric craft as ample of water is used in its making. Leheriya making is an elaborated process that starts with gathering tools required for the process.  It needs a Khilli to tie the knots. It is very useful because it helps in tying knots very quickly.  Wet threads, usually of cotton, polyester, nylon, silk, jute and aluminum wires to tie the fabric are needed. Mudda, a small wooden stool with a pole at the end of that stool to tie the rolled fabric, while the other is kept lose. Undi, a large copper vessel to wash the fabric and also used for dyeing the fabric. A dryer machine also known as Hydro Extract is used to remove excess water from the dyed fabric & finally a Khoonti – to twist the fabric for removing excess water.

making-process-lekariya

The fabric is washed to remove the starch and other impurities. Before tying the cloth, it should be ensured that the cloth is moderately moist. Kapda geela hone se bandhte samay theek se khench aati hai,” (the thread can be tied tightly on the cloth and it maintains a firm grip on it if the fabric is moist). Also, before tying, the cloth must be folded and rolled according to the desirable pattern one wants to achieve. One end of this rolled fabric is tied to khoota. Pulling the other end, cotton thread must be rolled around the fabric anti-clockwise three to four times and cut, at regular intervals. This process is repeated through the entire length of the rolled fabric. After the tying, the fabric is dyed in the desired color in Undi, the dye powder is mixed with water. The tied cloth is then put into this mixture and dyed manually by a continuous circular movement of the hands holding the fabric. This is done for about one and a half hours, till the color seeps deep into the cloth. If more than one colour is desired on the cloth, the first colour needs to be discharged; the fabric needs to be put in a mixture of water and hydro powder.

making-process-lekariya-jaipur

This helps in re-dyeing of fabric with another colour without mixing the two colours. Some dyes need to be heated before dyeing the fabric so that the colour seeps well into the fabric. A chulha is used for heating. Also, to fix these dyes permanently on the fabric, the dyed fabrics are boiled in the dye and salt. After dyeing, the fabric is twisted and beaten continuously on a low stone platform.The fabric loosens a little due to beating which allows the dye to penetrate deep into it. Then, the tied fabric is again dyed and again beaten till it takes on the colour completely and evenly. The fabric is then twisted tightly with the help of Khoonti to remove excess dye and water. These tied and dyed fabrics are now hung out in the sun and left to dry. After the fabric dries, one end of it is rolled in the toe to untie the fabric. This is done by pulling the loose ends of the knots. Thus, a Leheriya is created.

craft-process-lekariya

Leheriya making has evolved over time to achieve any desired patter & there is a major difference between the aesthetics and techniques of Leheriya in the late 20th century and early 21st century.

Rajashahi Leheriya: Also known as Pratapshahi or Salaidar. It is the most commonly found pattern of leheriya, which has a diagonal wave like pattern.
Mothara: Mothara leheriya is made by repeating the process for pratapshahi (diagonal) leheriya twice such that they intersect each other and form small diamond like shapes known as ‘patanga’.

rypes-of-lehariya

Nageena Mothara: Nageena is the hindi term for gems. This pattern is known as ‘Nageena Mothara’ since small gem like squares are formed at equal distances.
Katva Patta Leheriya: In this leheriya, the fabric is dyed twice. After it is first dyed, the colour is discharged using acid and then it is redyed with another colour. Also, because they create bands at equal distances, which are known as pattas in Hindi, it is called katva patta leheriya.

rypes-of-lehariya-jaipur

Leheriya being mostly done on breezy fabrics is one of the favorite choicesfor a woman under the scorching heat of Rajasthan & they have associated colors with every festival. For festivals likeTeej and Gangaur, women are dressed up in Samudra Rajashahi Leheriya. During SharadPoornima, they flaunt a light pink colored Leheriya, also known as Mothia.

laheria-meaning-rajasthan

People in the Durbar are deeply listening to every word uttered by the King. “Lastly” he says “the craftsmen in my province love experimenting with old crafts by adding a new touch every time…. And I believe that innovations have to be kept alive… at any cost… It gives me immense pleasure to try out these little experiments of theirs& keep them encouraged. And also it is by means of this that I keep connected with my people as their keeper and well wisher.”

The outstanding King thus had won the hearts of every attendeebefore he reached the end of his Pink story… and the King of Jaipur got many patrons among the fellow Kings for his Leheriya…

~

Text & Images ( 3, 5,6,7) by 

Ashmita Meghrajani,  Moksha Jain, Riya Chandiwala,  Riya Shah, Ruchi Gattani

Winds on Foot…

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Atop Sahyadri mountains withstands a beholder, all that need not come close… deceit and foul play of the theatrics around…. is silently swallowed by a carpet of white clouds floating right on top of the city… not to touch the little nail of his toe. This holy priest to-be is already in his warm red garb waiting for the rendezvous to begin… mornings are for prayers. A witness to the centuries gone by, these walls of Mahalaxmi temple of Kolhapur have stood like a calm listener awaiting stories that come by… as prayers sung by hissing winds and the parade of orchestrating birds.
 
kolhapur
 
Dawn breaks free… the morning breeze, the flocks of birds leaving nests, the chanting of the priests, urging the city to wake up to the call, to drop the dark blanket they wore to slumber last night… that weighed them heavy… that has been dried by the gold of sun, delivering them naked and fresh again in the arms of mother earth. A rush of old beliefs & modern thoughts comes together towards the Western Ghats, where the city of Kolhapur awaits the results of this perfect blend. Also called the Dakshin Kashi of India, Kolapur is surrounded by lush green landscapes which house incredible archaeological & cultural heritage. Legend goes that the city was settled by Kolhasur, a demon who was later killed by Mahalakshmi to relieve the local populace. However, honoring the demon’s dying wish, the city was named after him. The goddess of wealth and power, Devi Mahalaxmi’s temple is located at the heart of the city. This temple is famous for its well known South Indian Architecture, built by Chalukya king Karndev in 634 AD.
 
kolhapuri-lakshmi-temple
 
Kolhapur is one of the oldest civilizations of the country. In 1945, excavations on the Brahmapuri in Kolhapur have revealed the existence of an ancient town dating back to the Roman era. Its cultural history is dated back to 17th Century. The princely state has been ruled by different dynasties in the past, but it was under the rule of the Marathas that it became a cultural hub. Rajarshi Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaja is the architect and founder of modern Kolhapur. Shahu Maharaja’s reign lent a progressive spirit to the city and the king extended his patronage to arts like theater, film making, music, painting, sculpture, wrestling and crafts like tanning and jewelry making. He was not among the male ancestors of this dynasty as he was born as the eldest son to Appasahed Ghatge, the Chief of Kagal on 26th June 1874 and was named as Yashwatrao Ghatge. In the year 1884, Rani Shrimant Anandibai Raje Saheb decided to adopt him and made him Chhatrapati of the princely state of Kolhapur. Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj ascended the throne of Kolhapur in 1894, bringing an end to the 50 year old regency administration. His reign of 28 years from 1894 to 1922 ushered a new era of social, cultural and economic reforms for which he is remembered as one of the greatest rulers in Maharashtra. After the reign of Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj, the Bhosale Dynasty continued on the Throne of Kolhapur.
 
Maharaja-of-kolhapur
 
Taking birds on its way the wind reaches the floating river Panchganga to collect stories of the day. Birds sit afloat, soaking in their spongy under coat the flowing messages… what is it that the soil feels under so many stamping feet, the boulders grumble for a reason and the storms thunder not for no reason…. The cacophony of the charioteers trading their harvest and all this play happens in whose interest…The River questions the breeze “Why are you so late! I have thousands of things to share…” & the breeze starts collecting these messages rather quickly. A bag full of stories each bird becomes and flies towards the temple. The birds start to unfurl the messages & the wind binding them all together speaks up “I the morning breeze bring to you messages of the city as told to me by the river so mighty… ” The temple walls are all ears in delight… Overwhelmed with the response, the wind unfolds freely “Unfamiliar footsteps are climbing the rugged mountains in the dark hours, gracing the city with their unusual attire, bringing a strange aura with them. Carrying humongous sacks around with cattle, pulling carts full of goods; they are the Saudagars from different regions coming to the city, to make a living. After an overnight journey bruised feet often retire themselves by the banks of Panchganga waiting for the day to peep in.
 
old-kolhapur
 
As the sun rises they make their way towards the bazaar again. The bazaar has hundreds of lanes where traders sit on either sides working out their way by selling off their goods to the customers. On the far end of the lane a young man sits… acknowledged by none he looks for an opportunity to run his livelihood. He gazes at bruised & bleeding feet walking past him & thinks to himself; “I can make something to ease their pain and also earn a penny for a change.” After researching for days he comes up with an idea of making a chappal (sandle), an acquaintance through the rocky mountains, saving the wearer from snakes & scorpions, 70 Vinchu seeds(Martynia annua or Devil’s claw seeds) he puts inside a single chappal and oils it with groundnut oil, giving them a crackling sound with every step …. This he believes will scare the insects around. These chappals are made with animal hide to beat the heat & also be water resistant at the same time.
 
seeds
 
After thinking it thoroughly he set a small shop at roadside corner & in no time his chappals became the talk of the town & Saudagars from every corner started coming to him with personal demands to be incorporated in the design along with their customized foot size. The young man wonders to himself “Once a neglected no one, now people from every corner come to buy these chappals from me” & with that thought he gets back to making again….”
 
making-kolhapuri-chhapal
 
To make a Kolhapuri Chappal craftsmen use many tools like Hammers of different sizes, Punches, Rappi (Knife), Sewing Machine. These chappals are made from processed leather. Mainly buffalo, goat or bull hides are used in the manufacturing of these. This leather is processed and grazed. The process of making the chappal starts with removing the hair from the hide. Salt & lime powder is mixed with water in a big tank & the hides are soaked in it for four days.
 
Material-kolhapuri-chhapal
 
As the skin becomes softer it is stitched with Sisal leaves into a bag form. Harada (Myrobalan fruits) pieces, Babul pieces with water are mixed in a wooden bucket called as Teep for about five days. This mixture is filled in the leather bag in the upper portion for about 7-8 days and further the mixture is filled to the lower portion and tied for about 8 days.
 
Chhapal-base-making-proces
 
The craftsmen prepare a surface of babul tree for drying the leather under the sun for 2-3 days & afterwards they are kept in storage. Leather is washed again to make it soft & simple tools are used to make it ever smoother. After a design & the size are finalized, the craftsmen use a stencil to mark the shape & size. Layers after layers are stacked together to prepare a sole, to bind those leather or cotton threads are used to stitch them together.
 
Chhapal-making-proces
 
After the sole is ready, the craftsmen proceed to make different types of decorative straps using soft leather stripes & punched leather pieces. These different types of knots & stitches are one of the main qualities of a Kholapuri chappal & sometimes local adhesives are also used to stick different parts. Lastly a shoe cream, a color mixed with little water is used to get a yellowish or reddish color.
 
finishing-kolhapuri-chhapal
 
The straps are attached to the base part of the chappal & for ornamentation purpose different type of threads and zari are used. Named after the city, Kolhapuri chhapals have a very strong character, one that is easily identified by their aesthetics. Local craftsmen also have different names for these chappals; like Kapsae, Korwnda, Nachemaruie, Agutapata, ShahuMaharaj, Maherban, LadiesPaper etc.
 
kolhapuri-chhapal-designs
 
Predominantly crafted by the people from the lower caste, with time they have become a major identity of the city. The dusk approaches & it’s time for the wind to leave and the birds too should get back to their nests before it is too dark. “Many people in the city await my arrival” says the wanderer wind…. And heads straight to hit the highest gong in the temple premises…. & leaves the temple bewildered & awestruck!

A stitch, a leap!

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Mutwa-people-story

Long stretches of Babul… small mud puddles circled by pastures… offering a quick swim to the cattle… It’s calm in here as she swings herself in a hammock anchored between two trees… watching the pale sky change colors… letting her imagination ponder… This is the best time of her day! Birds in huge swarms make splendid patterns on the dusky blue sky… they seem to follow a rhythm they are so attuned with, that they bring joy into being… like the consistency of her swinging is bringing to her at the moment, slowly taking her into an apparent slumber… She is not asleep… just slid into a world where she is more connected with every detail of her surroundings than she is with her eyes open… and she draws out threads of her assortment & a few half-done pieces of her life… each awaiting stories to be fulfilled…

muthwa-hand-embroidery

The needles go in & out rapidly, capturing every little image around… the flow, the colors, everything strikes a balance with nature just so intuitively… Those far distant scapes now sit eloquently between her threads. And the fading horizon triggers her curiosity… leaving her puzzled more than ever… “What lies beyond these?” A trail of thoughts gets a break as she hears some voices from the shade of another tree… She tunes herself in the direction to gather what the men have to say. They talk of the places she has never been to & people she has never met. Thirsty for stories apart from her mundane mortal life she tastes fresh nectar. A mouthful every time she feels like, dipping into the unknown world through a little window under the shade of the tree & filling up gaps of her half embroidered imagination… with stories of known & unknown… soon becomes a routine…

muthwa-community-house-kutch

Gathering her figures and drawings from both the worlds she is reminded of the beautiful womenfolk of her land, the garments they wear and the unique ornaments worn by them… Bhori- the motif on a nose pin that sits and sparkles like a star on an earthy terrain of her nose, Kanjari- women’s upper garment that hangs like an art panel in front, Chopad - the four-sided game they play, the Gul & Butti (flower & creeper) arrangements that she notices around, Golaido - the bulbous little flower of Gourd (Cossignia Grandis)… all make very intricate and attractive layouts on her fabrics… With imagination at its epitome, she invents unique border designs for their minuscule level Farura (the border), on contrary to that another border design known as Molado-  border inspired from the pattern on their wooden pestle, also finds place.

muthwa-embriodrey-motifs

Meanwhile, minute chain stitch adorns the outlines and starts filling within, tiny interlacing stitch starts working to fill the motifs and bits of mirror place themselves in the center of the motif, with buttonhole stitches holding them there. Pakko - is what the amalgamation of stitches is called. Other needle and thread arrangements such as Romanian, Detached chain and Back-stitch employ themselves quickly to accentuate the main stitches. In addition to the above, there is another style of embroidery known as Kachho - which is generally seen adorning the Kanjari (top garment) of the ladies above 50 years. Kachho consists of single and double satin stitch, outlined with a back stitch. Mamsaigaj (the traditional name for Mushru) the most auspicious fabric for Kanjari is embroidered with cotton threads called- San. The stitch consists of single and double satin stitches, outlined with back stitches.

muthwa-women-wedding

These motifs and threads seem to grow as she grows; taking shapes witnessing various phases of her life as she embroiders and wears them. Like a fully blossomed tree in young age, she wears densely embroidered upper garments with vibrant thread work, with the glitter of the mirror (Tak) on them. Embroidered attires, as well as accessories, are exchanged during cultural rituals such as weddings. Contrasting color variations attained through an intuitively selected bright pallet… a composition of creative motifs and shiny hues on a solid colored background that fills exuberance in life… These arrangements seem to coincide with facts of her living condition in parched lands. Her embroidery sets a contrast to the overall impact of the locale… the contrast that she desires to bring into her life, her society… In such magical ways, the characteristics of the embroidery are defined… the Mutwa embroidery… the embroidery of a girl who travels far in her imagination while social confines keep her within limits. In line with the tree’s life, as she matures, she gradually loses interest in wearing extensively decorated clothes… the quantum of her embroidery seems to be mellowing to a more subtle form. However, a little ornamentation on her apparel constantly stays as an indication of times in her life when she was carelessly upfront.

Muthwa-community-story

Mutwa often lead a life synchronized with the rules of their immediate nature. Settled in the western part of Indian subcontinent, in the desert of Kutch, these people of Banni are said to have migrated from the land of Sindh. More than 17 sub-communities in the cluster practice vivid needlework with Mutwa, leading them all with their vast imagination and intricacy of work. Apart from their main livelihood as cattle herders, the women constantly get back to their only creative expression in leisure time. Their need to decorate clothes is by heart lined with the behavior of their environment. Mutwa embroidery is also misunderstood as Aari work. The craft and its practitioners are affected in recent times due to increase in footfall in the cluster. As degradation in soil composition affects the growth of trees, similarly change in basic garment silhouettes because of increasing interest of tourists in visiting the village has forced the community to bring changes in their dressing style, which has further affected their embroidery layouts.

muthwa-kutch-dress

These pieces of self-expression, only to be kept and passed on through generations as souvenirs are now beginning to fall into the hands of buyers and are also now made to order. The quality of work is decided in accordance with the payment offered by the client. To take the example, Pakatadi- buttonhole stitch or scattered Romanian stitch embroidered around mirror has two versions- Regular and Sarkari, the latter being of less density. It is said that amongst all embroidery practicing communities they receive the highest payments for their work.

muthwa-women-working

Sieving through these details she often almost habitually pulls herself out of them to take an overview of what is beginning to form … and she finds strange things in her own patterns… the grids laid out by her are no longer reminiscent of any creeper, they look like a network of straight and meandering roads to her… on which rows of beads perfectly stand as people, the tiny mirrors right in the middle of those square neighborhoods, reflecting sky are ponds… flora, the green patches in and around these neighborhood clusters… she sees the sparkling glitter on and along the trails as the lights of the vehicles transporting people in and out of the city… “City!” But when did she ever go to one to know how it looks… Was she hallucinating? A distant singing of a hoopoe falls onto her ears, as though assuring her of her sanity… she felt heard… without even having to ask for it… but there were still more complex worries that she needed to discuss… how would she convey them or how would he be able to respond to them in his single tone singing… Interrupting her thoughts again she hears a friend call… feels heard again… but she knows that her questions are not what any of them would be able to answer… that they would only pull her back into the mundane… where she feels choked… and she wonders…

 

why is it that despite being able to enter the deepest realms of her thoughts and knowing her secrets and being able to respond to them, the hoopoe lacks the accuracy of knowing what she really wants… The thought brings a momentary smile on her face as she sees a momentarily stupefied hoopoe standing in front of her… to stay only till another cloud of thoughts gather around her eyes… In gamut of stars… and beyond! Beyond infinity… flowing over planets… She has loved exhaustively…Infinity! Infinity! A word of the other world… slips into proximity… in her slumber… earworms into his head quietly… loafing around… all he can sing now is… In-finity! Echoing very much within her closed finites … She wonders… she wonders again… Why are so many days, months, years numbered infinitely then… when life only occurs in moments? What is the meaning of feeling infinity and living only in close finites…

Information & Images by – Kruti Dholakia
Image 4 & 7 form Bollywood Movies – Mujhse Dosti Karoge

Back from the memory lane…

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Azaan from the nearest mosque wake his senses & like every other day, Sardar Hussain sets out with his little trunk. Placing it on one side of the veranda, he gives the tattered rug a quick swish before placing it on the cemented floor. Offering his gratitude to the warm lights, to the morning breeze & to Allah for being so kind, he starts his day. His tools, half done pieces & a small wooden bench create a small workstation of his own in the open air midst of the narrow lanes… Taking up the chisel & the unfinished block he makes the first beating, the mere sound of which creates a tune… Music to the carver’s ears!

wood-block-carving-artisan

Soon the empty lane floods with young apprentices, each adding their bits & pieces to this symphony… It’s a mélange of rhythms bestowing an orchestra upon the onlookers…. where words are not needed…. Throughout the day they would discover new rhythms… creating prized pieces out of the ordinary. The day takes shapes & soon the streets of Pilkuwa, a small town of Hapur district in Uttar Pradesh are abuzz with chatter… rushing bullock carts, brightly colored towels and bed sheets soaring high on either sides of the road with designs inspired from their surroundings, nature which would last for a lifetime…

Pilkuwa-town-UP

Sardar remembers the day he along with his family moved to Pilkuwa from Farrukabad, post partition, in mid twentieth century, getting along with him a wealth of skills. The region flourished, every street had a block carver’s den with young apprentices thronging to learn under a master, since this was the primary tool for printing.The supply chain was in motion from availability of raw material, supporting facilities and the final market, all elements were in place. Smaller towns and villages in the vicinity like Hapur and Chipiyana Buzurg with their printing karkhaanas (workshops) were already supplying base fabrics like canvas, bed linen, towels etc. to the well-established military cantonments during the British times. This laid the foundation of fabric manufacturing here and by mid-twentieth century the focus turned towards hand spun, handmade cottons called Khadi. The specialized products were bed-linen for domestic as well as export markets. The streets of Pilkuwa used to be busy with bullock–carts fully stacked with textile, being transported for printing, dyeing, washing, packing etc. The market flourished till the nineties & then later saw a fast decline in the production of block as well as screen printing due to the entry of low cost machine printed goods, high production expenses and lack of appropriate market. Gradually, screen-printing took over the intensive block printing process, labor costs increased due to inflation and the products were unable to keep up with market demands.

wood-block-carving

Keeping the bitter-sweet memories he drags the rusted trunk to the hallway… Screeching noises now wake none! After long he has developed the courage to put himself together to work on the unfinished blocks. Calmly he takes out his thirty chisels, a hand bow drill, wooden mallets, arranging them one after the other with profound love. Aging hands start with the beating & scrapping yet again. He would pause several times lifting his head up to look around waiting for someone to join him. The unfinished block finds itself in the dark again & so does the lost rhythm.The surroundings have affected him way more than he thinks… putting a full stop to his thoughts, he steps out in the streets… only to find a carver like him hidden inside many others. The memory lanes would open up yet again… now with the clinking teacups… sometimes cherishing the good old days & sometimes trying to refill the missing notes… His son, Arshad has been a witness to their conversations all along… fascinated by the stories they tell…. and with each passing day he becomes a part of it… He would listen to them for hours, carving everything he heard in his imagination…One day, lost in the intricacies of his tactile memory, he begins ghost waling discreetly only to find himself in front of his father’s old cupboard, his muse. To find a collection of block patterns, thousands of blocks dating back to flourishing times, some broken, some weathered…. “Knights of yore!” He thinks to himself and running his fingers through their edgy forms, falls in love yet again…wide eyed and amazed by every little rise and fall…

Sardar-Hussain---master-artisan

All pepped up, he walks up to his father one day & says“I have been listening to your stories & conversations from months & feel like I am a part of them now. I would be grateful if you could pass down your wisdom to me”. Warmed by his curiosity to learn, the old man sees himself in the little kid but all of a sudden withdraws. Determined! Every morning he would test & try by his understanding to create the same rhythm everyone talked about… After many such trials a similar but amateur rhythm echoes…pulling a string of old man’s heart… & he decides to finally give in.

wood-carving-material

He teaches his son all he knew from the woods to the tools & the processes involved…“The primary timber used for Blocks is Shisham (Dalbergia Sissoo) & Teak (Tectona Grandis) carved on the vertical face that is perpendicular to the grain to ensure maximum resilience during impact in the stamping process (printing). The cross section is angular and hence finer motifs can be chiseled out. Thus the carving cross section here is an inverted “V”. With use this sharp line becomes blunt. The work set-up is essentially a sun lit area, with low tables, on which the timber is carved. Each carver possess up to 30 chisels, a hand bow drill, wooden mallets etc.

wooden-block-design-process

Marking of the timber and creating a smooth plain right angled surface is called Gunia.  Next, marking of the drawing using a chisel is done known as Tiipna. Now a day’s tracing paper is stuck to the wood & carved out following the guide lines. Carving process is carried out using various thickness and points of chisels as required, a wooden mallet is used with the chisel for absorbing impact. Rekh,is the Rekha which defines the outline of a block & Datta is the color fill in a block. All elements that need to be filled with color have a separate block assigned& lastly, Gad is the background fill.The most critical aspect is the ‘registry’ of the block;the precision of each block to correctly fit in its space in the pattern. The job of the printer is to correctly apply the blocks & to create precise components that ‘register’ perfectly to create modular patterns on impression”.

wooden-block-making-process

The motifs are inspired from the existing vocabulary of motifs like Mughal Butta, the Soorajmukhi Jaal, Tree of Life, various flora and fauna,especially regal animals like elephants, lions and peacocks that have been documented by Arshad’s father, master of his craft, Sardar Hussain. These block carvers are often individual entrepreneurs and master craftsmen are trained over a period of minimum three years to learn this craft. The skill is honed and perfected slowly through the years & he works with a team of apprentices. The artisans are highly skilled and block carving is considered a life skill that is taught to all young boys even today. Large sheds that home long tables for printing are still around but production continues in screen-print with only touches of block, for giving a handmade feel. The entire process is in order and geared for production, if it were to return.

block-carving-process-and-products

Father & son both have found an apprentice in each other finally& together the old learning& a young thriving mind create new beginnings…a new life out of these old blocks. The block carver is also the designer of his motifs. Once a mere printing tool, now a useful contemporary object, this block has been thoughtfully placed among many wooden surfaces, bringing them to life…. all with the same wooden mallet& the unfinished pieces. Sardar Hussain takes up his place on the rug; marching to the thumping tune… he makes the final mark!

organic-connect

Organic Connect in collaboration with many such skilled masters started the Block Projectin 2009, inspired by the exquisite motifs of the Block carvers of Pilkuwa. It is inspired by traditional wisdom and skills to create meaningful objects for contemporary living. The range of products is designed keeping in mind this fine skill extending from exquisitely carved home décor objects, lighting and accent pieces of furniture. The uniqueness of this project lies in the transformation of the block as a tool for printing into a feature of value addition in contemporary objects for urban living.

artisan-carving-wooden-printing-blocks

A critical collaboration in this project has been the inclusion of traditional carpenters who build the basic object.Once the base is ready, it is time to adorn the piece with carving and /or inlay by the block carver. The production is based on sustainable practices using pieces of heartwood in the form of slats, which are often leftovers of commercial production. Seasoning of the wood is done using the shade drying method where the wooden slats are seasoned by placing alternately in the sun and then in the shade as opposed to quick seasoning in a fuel powered temperature controlled seasoning plant resulting in an ecologically viable practice. The motifs are borrowed from the rich vocabulary of the block printed textiles, like the Soorajmukhi jaal, a full color sunflower pattern that was used for large scale surfaces like curtains and is now used as a leitmotif in many products.

morden-utility-based-handmade-products

The objective of this project is to create a sustainable livelihood opportunity for the tremendously skilled artisans’ community and more importantly to continue evolving the practice. It has now become an established supply in the otherwise decreasing demand of block carving. This is an innovation required to shift the paradigm of crafts from its declining status to evolving. The idea has brought back the “Pride of Work” in artisanal practice, ensuring sustained livelihood opportunities. Felicitated by National Award for Crafts in 1981 and later been conferred the honor of Shilp Guru in2003, Sardar Hussain founded Sardar & Bros, an enterprise that produces handmade objects with block carving. Arshad Khan feel, the third generation skilled carver of the family is also a proud winner of the National Award for the year 1990. With a family of renowned & nationally acclaimed carvers Sardar Hussain with his sons travelled around the world to showcase their skills.

~

Text & Images by Organic Connect

 

 


Koorai Pattu Pudavai

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Floral archways above their heads sway with the cold morning breeze… Banana trees on either side adorn the courtyard… With turmeric & saffron smeared on their forehead, to embark the humble beginning… dressed for the occasion, are the women in traditional saris… Glittering gold & a garlands of jasmine dangling through their well groomed hair…beaming at each other with sheer joy… And the men are seen in white shirts, dhoti & a nicely folded Angavastram over their shoulders,looking subtle for everyday routine. As they enter, melodious tunes of Nadarswaram & Thavil captivate their senses… spreading words of prosperity far and wide… Splendid decor puts people in daze… fragrance of jasmine fills the whole place… Everybody awaits the bride…

The bride enters the place, gleaming with happiness she catches the eyes of many. The frolicking,melodious duo catches the rhythm again… Throwing a mustard spree in the air, her nine yard yellow Koorainadu sari gets the most attention… The checks, the striped patterns& the contrasting borders…ensemble with gold jewels & floral pleasantries, making everything worth the wait…Wedding rituals begin to bind the bride & groom in an eternal bond…

From a little distance, standing and showering flowers on the couple, a woman looks at the bride with great satisfaction and pride. It’s the kind of happiness only a maker can feel upon seeing his creations reach their destined fate… the girl looked dazzling in the that sari, she had given several months of her life to. It was hard work and perseverance well paid, for the girl had chosen it for the most important day of her life. She wished the bride with all her heart & showed gratitude for making her a part of her celebrations. A pride she felt was incomparable… 

Going back home, the bride’s happy face flashed in her mind… reminding her of the days she was weaving the sari…. with utmost love & care, to be passed on to its wearer. In the tradition it is believed for the bride to wear one sacred sari during the occasion. Koorai Pattu Pudavai, a sari for the lasting journey of marriages worn by women folk of a few casts of Hindu Community of Tamil Nadu & is considered more auspicious for the green and yellow colors in it. The green relates to the trees and Pasumai, which is Tamil means greener and yellow is for Mangalyam. These nine yard saris are made out of plain cotton as well as cotton &silk and generally have checks or striped patterns, with contrasting border in yellow. The Koorainadu saris with wide borders are called temple saris, because they are woven and then offered to a temple deities. A peculiar characteristic of this sari is the formation of cotton checks by the interlacing of warp and weft during weaving and this can be woven only by an experienced weaver.

Koorainadu silk saris are produced in Koorainadu, a traditional handloom weaving center near Mayiladudharai. These saris are produced in the quality of pure silk and fine twisted mercerized cotton yarn, in both wrap and weft ways in the ratio of 2:1, giving them a silk saris look.It is light weight due to the presence of silk to the extent of almost 2/3rd of the sari woven in small checked patterns & seer Pallu looking like silk sari rather than cotton, making it unique.

Since the saris consist of only checks and stripes, plain looms are used. Weavers take approximately ten days to make one sari. Nowadays, the saris are available in multiple colors like Arraku for maroon, maal- Yellow, pachai- Green, karuppu- Black &Sigappu-Red. These are made out of finer count, that is, 40s, 60s and 80s count of cotton and finer count of silk as well. The dye used for silk is synthetic dyes.

A part of Mayavaram (Thanjavur District) is today known as Keranad, a word derived from Koorainadu, which means the land of textiles…or a place where cloth is manufactured…most of the weavers involved in sari weaving are Sāliyan weavers. They claim to have a Purānam relating to their origin, which is said to be found in the Sthalapurānam of the Nallādai temple. They believe that they are the descendants of one SāliyaMahā Rishi, a low-caste man, who did service for one Visākar, who was doing penance near Nallādai. Through the grace of the rishi Visākar, Sāliya became a rishi and married two wives. The Sāliyans are said to be descended from the offspring of the first wife and the MottaiSāliyans from the offspring of the second. In former days, the Sāliyans were not allowed to sell their goods except in a fixed spot called māmaraththumēdu, where they would set out their fabrics on bamboo sticks. High-caste people never touched the cloth, except with a stick. At the present day, the Sāliyans occupy a good position in the social scale.

 

Engrossed in her thoughts, the weaver reaches home &a long silence from the muted looms greets her. In old times this place was brimming with thousands of weavers & now only 20- 30 are left. The entire village used to be buzzing with weavers weaving saris & now there are none. She wonders to herself “Sari, which is a part of most auspicious occasion is seeing such gloomy days.” But then see looks at the very few weavers left in her community still weaving with hope. Putting all their efforts in the sari to make someone’s day special, someone’s  marriage prosperous, someone’s face lit…. the bride’s face from the morning flashes in her mind yet again & she sits back on her loom, her fingers pouring happiness in lives… near and far.

Six yards of play!

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mehndi-rituals-in-andhra

In the most intimate moments of their innocent child’s play what do girls do… playing scenarios of eld life… dressed up like them and behaving like them… Intuitively, they recognize the dramatic nature of life surrounding them & choose to role play… and before they realize these little games of theirs once played with light heart, suck the heart of their beings so seriously, that they lose their grips on life… life, that is outside of the role play, the life of innocent cheerfulness that once surrounded them … when they had just begun. Veena and Laxmi, two adorable brat girls of the household barely eight or nine in their age were at the threshold of adopting their favorite roles for the game & the game of life one fine day.

old-wooden-box-india

Mother’s old wooden chest full of hand-woven treasures was spooling with Kanjivarams, brocades, temple borders and fine cotton drapes in earthy and bright hues… two of which were picked up for the day… No one, not even mother could say a word to keep them off because she was the one to introduce them to the art of draping sari… in her very own impeccable manner. So,anything anyone noticing this beautiful mess could do was to sit back & watch. The agenda for the day from the activities taking place seemed to commence one of a grand scale. Others from the village were invited, they were but of course to be accompanied by the real members of the ceremony… the even miniature versions of human species, ones with rubber like flexibility & somewhat restricted pallet of gestures. Dress code was strictly formal. Now to think that this child’s play would be an easy affair would only demonstrate narrow vision on one’s part… because these little, fervent beings were up to something big today. Members collected and were greeted with Tilaks from Barinis, greeting the hosts with the same gesture in return.

andhra-village-people-singing

Things were gathered, set was ready and the show begun! Gatherings in village were clearly for the exchange of words, gazes, gifts, kind, cattle and at times men & women… & so was this one, a marriage… an exchange of someone’s little one accompanied with processions &barter of valuables… A weaver; yardages of fine woven fabrics, A farmer; few ‘kuncham’ of green gram, A potter; earthen pots for storage of water, someone sweet savories for everyone, some garlands of fresh flowers… little fineries to beautify daily life were collected by one and all… Of these, a carpenter was responsible for the most essential aspect… the six auspicious Barinis... These were decorative wooden boxes to carry six essential components of a girl’s morning rituals.

ponduru-saree-weaver

These boxes were particularly the center of attraction for no exchange could take place without them. Meanwhile outside under the blazing afternoon sun someone was performing a loud sing song, telling salt from water. What a talent for someone to sing impromptu the truth of the moment… This left embarrassment on the faces of those whose names were being called out & an uneasy breath stuck in the tracks of those who were left, that theirs shouldn’t be the next one… And yet here it was… all being sputtered out as beads from a pea pod.

andhra-village-women

The gypsy kept on unperturbed, changing attires, singing Janpadam all day long. Offerings of valued articles mostly from one’s own practice, decorated beautifully & purified further with a green pan leaf and an ‘Anna’, little piles of Jaggery & jeera on it was being presented. Value exchange was the norm of the place and could be seen deeply embedded in day to day lives. Times like these, not too far in history witnessed villages exchange without involvement of money. These exchanges or offerings were often made in wood containers of a fixed measurable volume “Kuncham”, in “Barinis”. Mothers, girls, household women could be seen carrying these big, small colorful wooden boxes for all sorts of purposes;carrying food, cloth, spices or money or elements of “Srinagar”.

wooden-burniues

These could be seen as traditional clutch purses, only more specific to their purpose of carrying each time. They were inevitable to each household. Guests satisfied their taste buds with delicacies of grams, vegetables, fish & meat ending with Toddy drinks and candies of jiggery sprinkled with sesame seeds... all prepared at home. Whoever said toys were essential for kids surely forgot to take a good look at the world of elds, reeking of an inevitable need to be surrounded by toys at all times, to fill up spaces left by lack of imagination… Unstoppable by lack of objects, children ride air horses, return victorious from expeditions in minutes, win wars without bloodshed, travel galaxies without space suits or ships… and here & now they stand next to each other, with their Tilak smeared foreheads making no exception out of their sari & dhoti clad bodies, groomed for the event.

old-palki

They have assumed the role of spouse to each other forming sort of odd couples, unaware! Absorbed in an act of greater importance; relishing sesame candies! All this happened and the miniature bride was sent off covered head to toe in silk & jewels… as the ritual goes, in a wooden palanquin shimmering with drapes & flowers, held high on shoulders by two porters… not a sight of her face visible to the public… Saying by grandmother goes, the women of the household were not to be seen by even their grandfather, the palanquin waiting outside of the house would gobble them up as quickly possible & be then gobbled up just as quickly by the train bogies, the lady was to travel by… ejecting right after delivering them to the interiors of the bogie…. ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ponduru-saree-design

Ponduru, is a townnorth of  Vishakhapatnam, along Eastern Ghats of Andhra Pradesh, famous for its single color saris woven in cotton. These saris can be identified by their temple borders in contrasting colors. The cluster apart from cotton saris also weaves khadi yardage, towels, lungi and dhoti material. Silk is also woven but slightly away from the center.

weaving-wellage

Entrance of each householdis decorated with auspicious Tulsi plant, morning & evening prayers are offered to. Laying Rangoli patterns with white power or sticking colorful stickers of them is a common practice. Walls are extensively decorated with pictures of Krishna-Radha, Balaji, and Hanuman. The houses here have raised porches.

black-shuttel

Weaving may happen on ground & first floor of the house, if the house has multiple stories.Husband & wife weave together on a loom. Simple metallic jacquards are used to make the motifs of creepers of flowers & leaves along with the border with an extra weft. Shuttles are of wood and black, unlike other places.

ponduru-saree-weaver-couple

A loft in the weaving room itself is decorated with golden pots & utensils of cooking, of brass or tin… of varying shapes & sizes.

andhra-loom-setup

A Pit loom arrangement in the first room of the house, just after the porch, defines the work space of the weaver. These pits are cemented arrangements constructed in the house, so the warp is at the floor level.

The way to create a thesis for your analysis paper on the fantasy novel?

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Birth of the Idea

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On one of his district tours to Chumur, Deputy Commissioner of Leh, G. Prasanna Ramaswamy IAS, noticed the women knitting beautiful garments for their family. This was when this idea stuck him to hone the women’s innate skills along with introducing weaving, so that they make marketable products.

looms-of-laddakh-people

His wife Abhilasha Bahuguna and he had also discussed promoting Pashmina products during courtship when on many of their exhibition visits they were surprised on not finding Changthang Ladakh pashmina sellers when it is the source region. Everybody else was selling Pashmina and everything under the brand name using the cooked up marketing tactic of fabled Pashmina shawl that can pass through a ring when genuine fabric cannot pass through a ring. So they strategized and worked together on Project Laksal to create the brand Looms of Ladakh. Other likeminded and dedicated officers and individuals joined hands to contribute in the success story of Looms of Ladakh Women Cooperative.

With a clear vision in front of them they aimed to establish sustainable Pashmina, Bactrian camel and Yak wool small scale industry with responsible environment impact in Ladakh. This was much needed so that the locals can remarkably benefit from their own ecosystem; this high end raw material comes from.

With their observations over many visits to the place, a comprehensive scheme was laid out. Focusing on creating a sustainable environment several tasks were undertaken:
1. Skill development- It was observed that most of the villages in Leh have women’s alliances (Ama Tsogspa in Ladakhi) whose members have managed to organize themselves into very small scale production units. These women’s groups produce coarse woolen and Pashmina products, whose market is mainly locals and visiting tourists. Apart from small scale economic activities these groups also act as pressure groups for reinforcing traditional values and opposing activities considered as modern threats, for example, drinking of non-local alcoholic beverages. These women have the basic skills required to produce crude hand-knit and hand- woven woolen and Pashmina products. Thus, one of the main objectives of the project is to impart refined skills to these women and also orient the products towards current market trends. Spinning, knitting, weaving and most importantly designing with emphasis on finesse is taught at the centre. The other skills imparted are basic communication in English, computer handling and coordination. It is envisaged that these skills will enhance their income earning capacity and provide a viable and sustainable source of livelihood.

laddakhi-women-yarn

2. Organization- There is a shortage of a skilled, organized workforce in Ladakh to realize the true potential of the locally available raw materials. This was evidenced from the fact that there were very few local producers and marketers of Pashmina and woolen products. The individual village based women’s alliances are very small in size and there is negligible interaction and viable cooperation between the alliances of different villages. Thus the project also intends to create an organized workforce of skilled women capable of producing and marketing their products directly through regular interactions.

3. Enhancement of income earning potential- It was observed that despite possessing some basic skills and enjoying access to quality raw material, the Pashmina sector has not been a viable source of livelihood to women in Ladakhi villages. For example, the women in Chumur and Kargyam villages were found to prefer working as unskilled laborers in road construction to weaving or knitting activities. Consequentially these women fail to realize the immense potential of the market for handmade Pashmina and woolen products and engage in less productive vocations.

4. Demonstration- There were no women organizations in Leh engaged in professional production and marketing of woolen and Pashmina products. There is a commonly held perception that Ladakh is and can only be a producer of raw Pashmina and does not have the comparative advantage in the production of finished goods. One of the objectives of this project became to demonstrate that organized production and marketing of woolen handloom products can be a viable industry providing livelihood to women in remote locations of Leh. It is anticipated that the success of this project will induce other women groups/alliances to seriously consider and engage in this sector bringing about positive changes in their lives and communities.

laddakhi-women

5. Women empowerment- Leh’s women have been in a comfortable social and family position in the past. A typical Ladakhi family used to hold its females in relatively high esteem and this was reflected in practices like polyandry (reportedly still in vogue in some remote areas). However, in recent times the position of women has been relegated relatively insignificant due to factors mentioned earlier. One of the reasons for such state of affairs is the lack of employment opportunities for women at par with men in rural Ladakh. This project targets a sector that has reach in most of the villages in Ladakh and can affect the lives of hundreds of unemployed women. When the earning power of women increases, their say in the affairs of the family and their community will also increase. This project seeks to create a successful example of empowering women through simple solutions tapping into their innate potentials and spirit.

women-weaving

6. Checking migration- The village of Kharnak does not exist anymore, not in any real sense anyways. Its residents migrated from the vastnesses of Changthang to the suburbs of Leh not so long back where it assumed its new form as Kharnakling. Kharnak is just a dramatic manifestation of a phenomenon underway in Ladakh in recent times due to the onslaught of modernity. Individuals, families and societies are abandoning their age old ways of life and occupations to migrate to Leh and other urban areas. Both push and pull factors are responsible for this migration and the pull more often turns out to be a mirage. Lack of income earning opportunities commensurate with modern expectations and comforts, acting as a real push factor driving these communities to outskirts of Leh, in localities like Skampari and Choglamsar. But the real threat is the potential loss of a way of life and over burden on the urban infrastructure of Leh. This project seeks to provide employment to rural women and their families in their villages exploiting their local resources and their talents.

pashmina-leh

Changthang region produces 450 quintal of Pashmina every year. There are more than 2000 nomadic households directly engaged in livestock rearing in Ladakh. Most of it is sold outside through traders who convert it into machine made finished goods. In Ladakh, value addition in Pashmina for bigger markets has never happened before. This is the first such effort to convert available raw material into finished products on such a big scale. In the Pashmina trade, most of the value is locked up at the higher level. At the bottom of the value chain, cost of raw material is Rs.2100 per kg. One goat produces 250g raw material per year. The earning that the nomad gets after rearing the goat throughout the year is negligible. Whereas a shawl made from 75-100g can fetch more than Rs.15000 in the market. Through this initiative, women’s Cooperative was able to convert 8 quintals of raw material into finished products. This is the beginning. We are hopeful that more communities will join this movement and by next year they will be able to add value to more quintals.

laddakhi-women-spinning

Also, last year the cost of pashm after dehairing was Rs.7600 per kg. This year it is Rs.7000 per kg. Price is determined by international market based on production in Mongolia, China and Ladakh and the international demand. There is price fluctuation. So by adding value to a part of Pashmina raw material, the risk of Pashmina growers is hedged.

The project aims to bring the Pashmina growers under the ambit of the umbrella brand ‘Looms of Ladakh’ with each production year by Peer Learning. The villages of Stok, Chuchot, Phyang and Kharnak were trained first as part of the pilot project and the villages of Chushul, Merak, Parma and Sato which are on the Chinese border in the second Phase. Kharnakling was chosen because it is a congested urban slum near Leh whose residents are migrants of Kharnak village in Changthang.

looms-of-laddakh-products

Their products were displayed for the first time at Tourist Information Centre, Leh outlet and an encouraging response was instrumental in building confidence. Without any marketing background these women saw how value addition in true sense gathers positive response and drives sales.

Phase II started in the harsh winters of ladakh, in Chushot and Phyang, where women were trained for three most crucial months. Saton, Barma, Merak and Chushul were trained after that.

looms-of-laddakh-kniting

Ladakh’s Pashmina Products should cater to a niche domestic and international market, which demands genuine, elegant but simple designs, playing with patterns and organic colors. Shawls, Stoles, Knitwear Apparels – both Avant-garde and casual, luxury home furnishing – Namdas (rugs), Pashmina and yak wool tweed fabric and other products that can be made by felting eg. Pashmina felt toys as souvenirs will be produced in near future.
A total of 150 women have benefitted from the project so far. As part of the training, individual communities were provided with; Master trainers to teach the intricacies of designing apparel, Raw material to work with, Equipments, tools and machines, A retail outlet in one of the most prominent places for the sale of their products, Organizational and financial training in collaboration with State Bank of India.

looms-of-laddakh-team

The Cooperative is owned and run by the women themselves. They have elected their own CEO/Secretary, Treasurer, Team Leaders for Marketing, Design, Production & Procurement for a term of two years. At the end of each month, 38 per cent of proceeds from sales are transferred to the village producer groups and the rest goes in remunerations and other recurring costs. A percentage is kept aside as Welfare fund which is again run by a local Committee to give out loans for medical and educational needs of the member families. The welfare loan also ensures a feeling of belonging and sisterhood among the members. Project Laksal has been implemented till now through Project Budget sanctioned by Deputy Commissioner’s Office and funds from the District Sheep Husbandry Department which have been utilized in one production year and now the women entrepreneurs have taken up the functioning of the cooperative.

Mentions:
The efforts of Dr. Tundup Namgyal, Shri Tatpar Joldan, Dr. Iftikhar Hussein, Dr. Niyaz-al-Hassanain, Shri Tashi Paldan, Shri Tsewang Dorjay and councillor of Changthang Ladakh are commendable. Everybody went out of their way and mandate to implement this initiative.

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